On Sunday 24th August 2008 I went to the town of Koenji in west Tokyo to watch the famous dance festival that is held there this weekend every year on Saturday and Sunday evenings. This was the 57th year it had taken place and unfortunately the weather was terrible for the three-hour parade. There was heavy rain and the dancers and musicians were soaked to the skin. It didn't dampen their spirits, however, and there were thousands of smiling faces. The number of spectators was lower than on a warm dry evening but at least I got a good view and everyone did their best to enjoy the sight of thousands of colourfully dressed dancers, pipers, drummers and bell-ringers!
The Awaodori originated in Tokushima on the island of Shikoku hundreds of years ago, although its exact purpose is in dispute. What isn't in dispute is its popularity. At this festival, which is the second largest of its kind in Japan, up to 188 different groups (ren) take part with as many as 12000 participants. I saw groups from as far away as the American island of Saipan in the Pacific. There were a few foreigners involved but this is not an international occasion, this is Japanese people enjoying their own remarkable culture. Copious quantities of beer help warm the atmosphere, with every shop along the route seeming to sell beer and food. The spectators were in a great mood and mostly obey the enforced rule of not joining in the dancing! The dancers themselves all seem to enjoy themselves immensely, even though the three hour procession must be exhausting.
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Group members waiting in the heavy rain for the Awaodori to begin,
smoking and chatting.
Each group consists of several sub-groups: firstly comes a man carrying a banner that looks like a lantern. He leads some dancers in short jackets and short white leggings (see top photo). These may be men and/or women of any age from small children to octogenarians. They call out a series of basically meaningless phrases while stepping and waving their hands and interacting with the spectators. Next you may see women in long kimonos with special semicircular hats (see photos above and below). These ladies proceed in unison, all stepping the same and again, joining in the shouting. There may be more short-jacketed dancers before we see the musicians who beat out a strong rhythm on drums (taiko) or play pipes, loud flat bells or stringed instruments. The overall impression is light-hearted but very powerful. The tunes are all basically similar but it is very hypnotic and I couldn't stop myself from trying to clap my hands or wave my umbrella about - difficult while holding beer and taking photos!
Japan has some wonderful festivals and if you time your visit with one of them, then you are sure to leave with some great memories. This festival isn't religious in nature, but instead, is a glorious celebration of enjoyment and community spirit. It's for both sexes and all ages, a truly inclusive event. Below, you will find some images I created from the photographs I took. I hope you like them! E-mail me and tell me what you think.
